November 8, 2024 to January 5, 2025 Woo family Charitable Foundation Kimono Collection exhibition at Janina Monkute – Marks museum – gallery.
Exhibition catalogue – click here
Exquisite kimonos have adorned Japan’s cultural identity for centuries, serving as timeless symbols of its beauty and heritage. Beyond their aesthetic splendor, kimonos provide a captivating avenue for individuals to express their unique identities. Notably, the 20th century witnessed a dynamic cross-pollination between Japanese and Western artistic influences, resulting in a fascinating fusion that resonated through both fabric prints and the evolving designs of kimonos. This interplay has not only enriched the palette of colors and patterns but has also influenced seasonal trends in kimono design.
The exhibition earlier opened in the Cesvaine Palace (Latvia) presented an unique window into the kaleidoscope of styles woven into kimonos throughout the 19th and 20th centuries. With a captivating array of 38 kimonos accompanied by over 40 exquisite obi belt samples, the exhibition stands as a testament to the boundless creativity of kimono artisans. The Janina Monkutė-Marks museum-gallery presents 23 authentic kimonos, obi belts and other attributes. It bears witness to their enduring commitment to honoring the legacy of kimono craftsmanship across generations, highlighting the profound reverence for labor, heritage, materials, and an array of intricate textile methodologies that have defined the art of kimono making.
The core of the collection is formed by one of the most impressive items of a Japanese bride’s wedding dress – the uchikake (Japanese: 打掛). Uchikake is a lined, long-sleeved outer garment worn by the bride for the last time on her wedding day. But originally, uchikake was an autumn season outfit for samurai wives during the Muromachi period (1336-1573). During the Edo period (1603-1868), they were favored by rich merchants and aristocrats. Since the Edo period, the uchikake has served three purposes as a garment: for courtesans, an outer kimono for a bridal ensemble, and an outer courtesan costume kimono for Kabuki theater actors. Gradually, uchikake became a popular item of clothing for women who wanted to experience a traditional Japanese wedding. As times changed, especially after the end of World War II, fewer and fewer people could afford the custom, handmade, exquisite uchikake.
Woo Charitable Foundation kimono and obi belt collection has been in Latvia for many years, and it has a special reason. Ten years ago, when Mr. Woo bought his first kimono, he had no idea that the unique garment would require time-consuming stain cleaning and restoration because it had not been properly cared for for a long time. Traditionally, kimonos are sewn by hand, and the seams must be redone before being washed. It is an expensive and lengthy process carried out by Hakuyosha, one of the oldest kimono cleaning companies in Hawaii. On the other hand, several embroideries damaged over time were restored in Latvia in cooperation with the member of the Latvian Textile Art Association – restorer Antra Saliņa. Latvian Art Academy lecturer and textile artist Elīna Veilande-Apine, joined forces with artist, graphic designer, and artificial language researcher Gundega Strautmane. Together they conducted research on the profound significance of various kimono types, styles, textile techniques, and symbolic elements within the exquisite kimono collection of the Woo family charitable foundation. The information is collected in the exhibition catalogue.
To truly understand the charm of traditional Japanese kimono as a clothing art, one must embark on an endless journey of discovery. It has been started and continued by many researchers around the world, as there are kimono collections in many countries around the world outside of Japan, and every collector has a reason to keep a certain kimono.
The collection of the Woo Family Charitable Foundation includes both luxurious and everyday kimonos, but no stories have been found about any kimono wearer or the family to which it belonged. However, the exhibition of this collection can give an insight into the diversity of the preserved elements of the kimono, which represent a small part of the elegance of Japanese culture.
Using the available resources – both consultations provided by Rukio Ito (Tokyo, Japan) and Keiko Ura (Hokkaido, Japan) and explanatory descriptions in the books “KIMONO a modern history” and “Kimono: the art and evolution of Japanese fashion” it was possible to determine four basic types of kimono exhibited in this exhibition: ceremonial kimono – UCHIKAKE and SHIROMUKU worn by the bride during the wedding ceremony; formal kimono – HOMONGI, TOMESODE, FURISODE for various official events; semi-formal kimono – IRO MUJI solid color kimono, most often worn during the tea ceremony and informal (casual) kimono – KOMON, TSUMUGI, JUKATA, perfect for going to the theater or an informal party with friends.
The type of kimono traditionally worn is also determined by the season. Kimono with inner lining is worn from October to May. From June to September – unlined kimono, but for the hotter months of July and August choose transparent silk or thin cotton kimono.
Kimono types, motifs, colors, and materials all contain symbolic messages and meanings. Specific motifs are associated with the season, the social status of the wearer, or events and traditions in Japanese history. On the other hand, the color of the kimono fabric has a strong metaphorical and poetic meaning.
To discover and decipher the symbolism of kimonos in the exhibition, written instructions next to each kimono or their group will help.
The second collection of the exhibition – an integral part of the traditional kimono OBI belts – is still at the preliminary level of research, so it only provides a visual opportunity to learn about different types of belts.
